I’ve always wanted to learn how to surf. It looks so peaceful and zen, despite the fact that it is basically an art of controlled falling. I’ve gotten into some of the more modern ‘extreme’ boarding like snowboarding and skateboarding, but I feel like surfing is really the seed of these now so-called ‘extreme sports’.
It’s believed that the ancient Polynesians (progenitors of Hawaii) started the act of surfing. The first written record was by Joseph Banks aboard the HMS endeavor in 1779, although the cultural custom of surfing most likely predates this record. The ancient Hawaiians regarded surfing, or he’e nalu (wave sliding), as an almost sacred activity to communicate with the ocean and pray for their protection and strength. I bet every single one of the surfers on this infographic were praying as well. Most likely praying for their life not to end after riding these giant tsunami-waves.
As you can see, this infographic uses the friggin’ Statue of Liberty as a scale for how massive these waves are. EFF THAT’S HUGE. You can even see all of the puny air we’ve gotten through other methods – snowboarding, skating, jumping, etc. Nothing can quite get you higher than that thing that takes up about 70% of earth.